Ambroise, Refined version ( Hidemi Sugino)

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Ambroisie ,one of the most popular desserts at Hidemi Sugino shop in Tokyo.I heard and seen so much about this dessert and the Famous name,I adored his artwork. Although I have not been to his shop or eat his master piece, I am truly appreciated all the cakes he made, my kind of idol. Hopefully one day, I will be tasting his art work, his ideas , his efforts, his master piece.

There are few things as you can see from these pictures , few differences comparing to Hidemi’s:

·       the colour of the chocolate glacage,

·       where is the gold leaf?

·       Where is the vibrant green colour of the pistachio joconde?

·       And where is correct sugar amount?

 

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I have heard so much of people who got highest privilege to taste this artwork, similar outcome:heavy and sweet. From the way it looks, it looks chocolaty and from the recipes I read, it is slightly sweeter to my taste.

After staying here for years, my sweetness  level has dropped drastically, especially chocolate. Now, the sweetness of a piece of LINDTS milk chocolate ball is overpowering for my taste, let alone for CADBURY chocolate. One word: my mouth is pain from taking that level of sweetness.So, I decided to refine this recipe, for all ingredients I could find here , for the sweetness I prefer.

 

Few changes I attempted for a reason:

a)Sugar level: I reduced so I can enjoy it,genuinely.

b) Pistachio joconde is not green enough: I couldn’t find pistachio paste here, and normally this kind of paste is flavoured and coloured such as Sevarome Pistachio Paste.I want to make it as natural as possible. The pistachio here also is not raw or in deep green colour.S o I blended my pistachio and mix with some water to be a paste, it is organic and permeates-free that I want this for as homemade.

c)Chocolate Glacageis not dark enough: The recipe requires Valrhona cocoa powder, but all I can find and prefer is Hershey cocoa. I love the aromatic of Hershey!

d) Where is my gold leaf: Again, cannot find here, so I used Edible Gold Sprinkle.

The joy of eating this winner dessert:

1)It is not overpowering with sugar or heavily chocolaty.

2)melts into mouth  instantly because low in gelatin. Now I understand why this cake is so precious and it melts easily in your mouth,basically no gelatin added, all from the cream. Once I remove from freezer, the mousse immediately slipped through my hand , it is really soft. I only dare to try this out during cold weather. Summer heat is the enemy for this dessert.

The taste of this petitely designed master piece, it is definitely worth my 2 days job.

 

 

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Few components you need:

  • Pistachio Mousse
  • Pistachio Joconde
  • Raspberry Jam
  • Sirop d’imbibage
  • Chocolate Joconde  (all above here prepared on Day 1)
  • Dark Chocolate Mousse (prepared Day 2 )
  • Chocolate Glacage (Prepared day 2 or 3, depends how long your mousse has frozen)

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This recipe from : La Petite Vancouver & Gourtmet Baking

serves :one 6-inch cake orthree to four 2.5-inch entremets

(A)Mousse a la pistache(Pistachio Mousse)

  • 130g Bulla whipping cream( or any dairy whipping cream)
  • 70g milk (Liddells lactose milk I used)
  • 1/10 vanilla pod
  • 40g egg yolks
  • 15g granulated sugar ( I reduced to 10g)
  • 2g gelatine leaves
  • 20g pistachio paste ( I grinded my own pistachio and mix with some water to make a paste)

1. Combine the pistachio paste with milk in a saucepan and bring to boil

2. Add in the vanilla pod

3. In a separate mixing bowl, combine the sugar and egg yolks and mix them until you get a pale yellow colour

4. Pour the pistachio-milk-vanilla mixture into step 3 little by little and mix until smooth

5. Pour step 4 back into the saucepan and heat it up in a low-medium heat. While heating it up, whisk the mixture vigorously until the mixture harden.Note don’t whisk too long or else you will ended up with scrambled egg texture.

6. Soften the gelatine leaves in a cold water

7. Add the soften gelatine into step 5

8. Beat the whipping cream until soft peak

9. Add 1/3 of the whipped cream into the mixture and mix well. Once incorporated, you can then add in the rest of the whipped cream and mix untilsmooth.

10. Pour the mixture into a circular mousse’s ring and set in freezer

 

(B)Biscuit aux pistaches (Pistachio Joconde)

  •  60g almond paste
  • 25g pistachio paste
  • 30g whole egg
  • 27g egg yolk
  • 17g egg white
  • 30g corn starch
  • 13g Western Star unsalted butter( or any unsalted butter)

French meringue

  • 53g egg white
  • 33g granulated sugar  ( I reduced to 25g)

1. Preheat oven to 200°C

2. Combine the almond paste and pistachio paste in a mixing bowl and whisk until incorporated

3. Continue whisking and add in the whole eggs, egg yolks and egg whites little by little and mix well until thicken

4. Sift in the all purpose flour and mix well

5. Prepare french meringue and add it into the mixture and mix well

6. Add melted butter into the mixture and mix well

7. Pour the mixture into a ring mould and bake for 7-10mins ( depends on your oven )

 

(C)Raspberry Jam (Framboise pepins)

  •  35g sugar ( I reduced to 10g)
  • 20g glucose
  • 8g water
  • 100g fresh or frozen raspberries
  • 4g pectin mixed with
  • 23g sugar ( I reduced to13g)
  • 6g lemon juice
  1. Bring the sugar, glucose, and water to a boil in a saucepan
  2. Mix the raspberries in and continue to boil
  3. Mix in the pectin-sugar and boil until raspberry has broken down and soft
  4. Cool in an ice bath and add the lemon juice
  5. Refrigerate until needed
  6. The recipe called for 50g of this jam

(D)Sirop d’imbibage

  •  20g Sirop à 30°B [ 13 sugar + 7 g water }—> (I reduced to 8g sugar+7g water )
  • 15g water
  • 15g raspberry liquor

1. Prepare the sirop à 30°B and microwave it until sugar dissolved

2. In a bowl combine the sirop à 30°B, water and raspberry liquor and mix well

 

(E)Biscuit joconde au chocolat (Chocolate Joconde)

  •  24g almond powder
  • 24g icing sugar (I reduced to 18g )
  • 24g egg yolks
  • 10g egg whites
  • 19g all purpose flour
  • 7g cocoa powder ( preferably Valrhona ,but I only can find Hershey and I love it)
  • 9g melted butter( Western Star unsalted butter I used)

French meringue

  • 44g egg whites
  • 45g granulated sugar ( I reduced to 25g)

1. Preheat oven to 200°C

2. In a mixing bowl, sift in the almond powder and icing sugar and mix well

3. Add in the egg yolks, egg whites and whisk until smooth

4. Sift in the all purpose flour and mix well with spatula

5. Sift in the cocoa powder and mix well with spatula

6. Prepare french meringue(On a separate clean bowl, whisk the egg whites until foamy and add the sugar a little at a time until it form firm peak) and add 1/3 of it to the mixture and mix until smooth.Add the rest of the french meringue and mix until smooth.

7. Add in the melted butter and mix well8. Pour the mixture into a ring mould and bake for 7-10mins ( depends on your oven )

 

(F)Mousse au chocolat noir(Dark Chocolate Mousse)

  •  225g whipping cream
  • 105g 66% dark chocolate ( preferably Valrhona , but I only can find Hershey )

Pâte à Bombe

  • 35g creme fraiche
  • 30g granulated sugar (I reduced to 15g)
  • 55g egg yolks

For Pâte à Bombe:

 1. Mix the creme fraiche, sugar in a saucepan and bring to boil ( or until all sugar melted )

2. In a separate bowl add in the egg yolk and whisk it until pale yellow in colour

3. Add mixture in step1 into step2 little by little while keep mixing at the same time.

4. Mix well using electric mixer

 

For chocolate mousse

1. Beat whipping cream to soft peak

2. In a double boiler, melted the dark chocolate ( chocolate’s temperature should not exceed 45°C )

3. Add the Pâte à Bombe into the melted chocolate and mix well

4.Add 1/3 of the soft-peak whipped cream to step 3 and mix well

5. Add the rest of the soft-peaked whipped cream to the mixture and mix well

chocolate glaze

 

Assembly

  1. Pipe pistachio mousse onto cake ring moulds,let it set little in freezer.
  2. brush one side with the sirop d’imbibage and place it on top of the pistachio mousse,brushed side down.  Then brush the other side with the syrup.
  3. Freeze
  4. Once frozen, take it out of the freezer and spread 50g of framboise pepins(raspberry jam) on top
  5. Using a cookie cutter or fondant cutter, cut circles with diameter slightly smaller than the cake ring you will use. (I use 2.0″ cookie cutter and 2.5″cake ring)
  6. Cut the chocolate joconde using the same size of cookie cutter.
  7. Assemble top-side down. Line a baking pan with acetate sheet and place the 3″ cake rings (or any size of rings you want) on top.
  8. Pipe some chocolate mousse at the bottom, then place the pistachio mousse-raspberry cut out on top (raspberry side on the top)
  9. Spread some more thin layer of mousse, then lastly place the chocolate joconde circle on top.
  10. Align another acetate sheet on top of the cake ring and set the cake ring in freezer overnight or until set.
  11. Once set, take our your cake ring and remove the acetate sheet ( top and bottom )
  12. Use a small blow torch or hair dryer and heat up the side of the ring ( don’t heat up too long or else you will melt the mousse )
  13. Once the ring loosen, use both hand to pull down the ring.
  14. You can put the cake back to the fridge while you now starting to prepare the chocolate glaze.
  15. Once the chocolate glaze is almost at room temperature (slightly warm but still pourable), pour the glaze on top of the cake and smooth it with spatula
  16. Refrigerate an hour  and decorate with chocolate petals and gold leaf(I decorate with gold sprinkles)

how to make ambroise

I must keep this experience in words and pictures for my future reference,hopefully.

Pages of recipe seem intimidating,after you try , it might increase your confident in making “long long recipe”. But worth 2 days of work  if sugar is reduced to your preference.The texture is marvelous.

 

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The best chocolate Mousse cake I ever tried,with the efforts to recreate this, it is worth the wait.

 

Happy trying.:) Secretly wishing to own Hidemi Sugino’s cookbook in English version 😛

 

Welcome to leave your comment here, love to hear from you ^_^

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16 thoughts on “Ambroise, Refined version ( Hidemi Sugino)

    • Jen Tey:
      I love this recipe, alot of work, but worth to try, takes me 2 days to finish. This recipe originally from my favourite pastry chef from Jaoan, i wish can have his recipe book, but all in japanese though. i am hoping i can get english book for this, but already no longer on sale in market.

      • yeah, never tried his recipe until this time, take me 2 days, but really worth trying…those days i have so much patient.most of the readers here dont like to have long recipes, hard to make not much people like to learn 😦

      • 還有一個現象,你的作品屬於高水準之作,如果沒有對烘培的狂熱是不會心動想動手去做。
        我發現一點,很多喜歡烘培的,不全是真的愛烘培,而是喜歡羊群心態盲目跟隨別人的風潮去做一種糕點,然後po出去比較,有種明爭暗鬥的味道!
        這不是我的作風,我喜歡你的作品,因為很獨特,不隨波逐流。我們稱為【非主流】,那麼非主流的作品需要懂得欣賞的人才會喜歡。就我而言,如果我很喜歡一道菜,哪怕是蘇聯文,我也會辛苦找翻譯,沒有100%準確,70 %也好,剩下的靠自己努力,這樣才會有成就感!
        不是一看到不認識的,不會的就放棄。好的料理需要更高的眼光去看待,而不應該被局限在文字的框框裡面,如果因此錯過了,有多可惜!哈哈

      • jen: i am struggled in between doing what i love or doing what readers like. I had some experience or feedbacks(negative ones that my recipes are being too challenging, too much steps; or some unkind people think i am showing off) i am still searching for what is best for me. yes, only those who likes it might understand my work, but majority of readers here normally go for simple, easy and ingredients are easy to find. To them, they love something nice to their eyes, but when come to the complicated long recipe, they just walk away. To me, beautiful things, sometimes come with hard work, otherwise it looks normal.But readers love simplicity and tasty. Even to me, i tried translating Japanese into english myself, not 100% got it, but 60-70% i got it right, i am happy. i know its hard to get everybody agree with my work, but i will keep doing what i can. I am deeply appreciated for u to like my post, my work, because you get me. I am still self searching my passion, hoping more people will know my work. ^_^ thank u jen for you encouragement ^_^

      • 做自己喜歡的就好。好比我的菜,有的真的是功夫菜,功夫繁雜,時間長,吃的時候每個人都說好想學啊,但是一聽到過程,大家就目瞪口呆的哇,懶惰。。。
        然後問我高壓鍋,萬能鍋。。。對不起,我對高科技炊具很抗拒。我總覺得要吃好東西,一定要花時間慢慢煮,煮出香味,煮出真功夫。一點懶都不能偷,哈哈!

      • jen, me too, everytime see my process, all scared..good food comes with time and price. but most people might not understand. i enjoy ur food the taste, the hard and long one maybe i havent reach the skill to do yet, but i try to learn from basic. i will keep doing what i can and love. thank u jen for ur encouragement ^_^

  1. Hi there I am interested in testing out your refined recipe but before I get started on it I have few questions for you. For the Pistachio paste how much pistachio and water did you use? can I use gelatin powder instead and how much? And for the almond paste did u made it yourself if so is there instructions ? Thanks!!

    • Hi Megan:
      Sorry for replying u late.As per said in the recipe,
      1)for the almond and pistachio paste:Let say, 25g of pistachio paste, just weight out a clean 25g of pistachio,process into powder, then add in water accordingly(you can add tsp by tsp)to get a paste.(not too watery but just pasty). Same goes to almond paste too.
      Normally in a professional bakery shop, they purchased the pistachio & almond paste online or from some supplier. The ingredients will not be natural. It might consist of some sugar, chemicals and colouring or even flavouring.
      Therefore, when u do it yourself in home, it will not have strong pistachio or almond flavour when recipe asked for paste.
      2)Gelatin:You can kindly use gelatin powder if cannot find the leaves.The amount will be the same.
      let say: 5g gelatin leaves= 5g gelatine powder.
      How to use gelatin powder?
      1)add some water into a powder ,enough to dissolve all the gelatin, microwave on high heat for 10 seconds until melted. Or just melt it over bain marie(double boiler).
      2)once melted and dissolved, remember to pour into warm mixture. If you pour into cold mixture, it will harden and will not dissolve. follow the recipe will be just fine.
      Hope all these help.Happy trying ^_^

  2. Hi,
    The cake look absolute delicious and stunning!
    I love your beautiful blog and I am really grateful for you to share all your recipe in your blog I really appreciate it. All your painting and desserts look gorgeous! You are an amazing artist and a talent pastry chef! Since you made Ambroise I was wondering do you own Le Gout Authentique Retrouvé by Hidemi Sugino if you do own that book can you please help me translating the book in english because I cant read japanese?

    Thank you

    • Dear Wendy:
      Thank you for visiting my humble blog.Drawing actually is just small part of my hobby and passion. Thank you that you still like those amateur sketches. I am actually not a chef but just a humble and enthusiastic home baker who enjoys baking all kind of cakes. About the book,Sorry I do not own any of those books.I wish I own those. Do you have one of the books?I am looking for the english version. This recipe of ambroise actually from La Petite Vancouver & Gourtmet Baking. Found it and thought I can try. May I ask how did you get this book ?From amazon?I wish I could have His master piece book. So sorry Wendy, I unable to translate japanese for you because I cannot read japanese too and I am not lucky enough to even get Hidemi’s book. Thank you again for visiting,Hope you have a great day,

      Regards
      Olivia,jbk

  3. hello!
    love the look of the cake!
    but may I ask for the glaze, does it withstand in room temperature?
    or if I were to refrigerate it, does it sweat/melt upon bringing out from the chiller?
    thank you!
    Shyanne

    • Shyanne:
      Thanks for being patient of my answer.The glaze can be stand room temperature for an hour or two(after glaze on a mousse cake,depending on season,hot summer day probably half an hour with a proper container well lidded).It is best to chill in refrigerator for entire mousse cake included the glaze(assumed you talked about the whole mousse cake.)
      If you mean just the glaze,it is best store in refrigerator for 2to3days cover properly.You can reheat or warm it up to right consistency and temperature when you need to glaze on a cake. If the glaze on its own in a bowl,it is best keep outside not more than 4 to 6 hours.
      No,I don’t think it sweats when just bring out from chiller if it was in container because you need to warm it up,so it won’t.
      It would not sweat even if its glazed on a mousse cake.It will melt if kept too long in room temperature on hot sunny day.
      Hope I answered your questions.
      Happy baking
      Love
      Hellosweetdessert

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